Description
Hi everyone, TinMan and team are back at it again. Boy the purists are going to have a field day with this one! Ever notice how many used switches are sold where their controllers are missing in action? Somewhere in this world there must be a huge pile of remote controls sitting there. If you find it let me know but in the meantime, got a new brainstorm item for your consideration.
Originally, we made a simple 2 switch control with led’s, which we also sell. Then somebody mentioned they needed something to handle spurs where he wanted to store extra trains and or engines. Hmmmmmm. So wala here you have it. This will take a little explaining so please be patient. This switch has the capability of doing the typical switching like two of the Lionel lever flip controls. It will work with virtually any remote-controlled switch, including K line, Atlas, Marx, etc. The green and red push buttons are momentary, which means they work like a doorbell switch. The yellow and blue toggle on and off, push once and they stay on, push again and they turn off, kinda like a light switch. Many of our customers have O22 style switches with a plug that goes into the side of the switch. We have included in this package 2 of our advanced bootstraps as part of the kit. If you are concerned send me an email as to what switches you have and we will supply you with wiring diagrams. All the switch controls light up with rear mounted LED’s to indicate the direction the switch is facing. (Red Curve, Green straight). Understand that the feature of lighting the remote red or green lites is a function of the switch, not the controller. In some cases while these controls will change the directions of any switch, if the switch is not equipped with the circuit to support remote lighting, both the red and green lights will stay on. Not going to hurt anything, just the way they work. FYI we are working very hard on a kit to convert switches to indicate correctly switch position on the remote controls. Not a simple process, will require a separate electrical switch to do just that job. Mounting that switch in the switches is quite the challenge, but if it were easy everybody would be doing it. In addition to controlling your switches, there are 2 additional switches which can are used used to supply power to your “spur” track that is connected to your switch. How this works is you pull or back your train onto a siding that is connected to a switch.(spur). The siding must have an insulator in the center rail. The power to the center rail is controlled by either the yellow or blue switch which are toggle switches ( push it once and it stays on, push it again and it shuts off),and the led behind the yellow or blue switch lights up when activated. to power up the spur track you push either the blue or yellow depending on where you wired it. Once the train is parked cut the power to the spur by pushing the button again. Pretty cool huh? Of course the blue and yellow switches can be used to control whatever you would like. Like all our controls, they come with 2 lengths 8′ of cable (one for each switch) to the switch, and or what ever you want to use the extra power switches. There is also a 3′ cable which needs to be wired to the transformer.If you have Lionel O22 style switches, let us know and we will send you our new switch power plugs at no additional charge (bootstraps). Complete wiring instructions that will also be available on our web site soon. Why Led’s? The lights in these switches we are told have a 27000 hour life, and draw roughly 1/100 the power of the old light bulbs. Why waste train power to run your switch lights, not a big deal you say? I have 34 switches on my layout, and had 3 transformers to run everything, I now have 1 ZW that takes care of everything just fine, including running 3 trains simultaneously. Why 34 switches, what can I say, I’m a builder and a tech, I like lots of gadgets, and that’s what I like doing. |